You are investing in timeless design and good old fashioned quality. Contemporary or traditional - choose a floor to shape your perfect living space.

  Choosing your wooden floor, different floors, different feel

The type of surface you choose decides the feeling you get from the floor.  Your feet are the part of your body that will feel the wood best.  If you want to feel a flat, smooth surface, choose a floor with a silk matt finish.  To feel more of the woods natural grain and texture, choose a brushed floor.  As well as feeling totally different to walk on, they also reflect light differently.  Oiled floors absorb light more than lacquered floors, which means the room can be perceived as larger or smaller.  Feel the floor before you commit to buying!

Laminate Hard Engineered

 

(Click on the boxes above to find out more about the three types of wood we offer)

Janka Wood Hardness Figures: Brazillian Walnut (Called Ipe & Cortez) - 3680 Brazilian Chestnut Wood - 3540 Angelim Pedra Wood - 3040 Brazilian Cherry Wood - 2350 Mesquite Wood - 2345 Cabreuva Wood - 2200 Santos Mahogany Wood - 2200 Bubinga Wood - 1980 Merbau Wood - 1925 Jarrah Wood - 1910 Purple Heart Wood - 1860 Hickory/Pecan Wood - 1820 Bamboo Wood - 1800 Doussie Wood - 1770 African Padauk Wood - 1725 Kempas Wood - 1710 Wenge Wood - 1630 Zebrano Wood - 1575 Afican Afromiosa Wood - 1560 American Ivory Maple Wood - 1500 Curupixa Wood - 1490 American Maple Wood - 1450 Hard Maple Wood - 1450 Caribbean Walnut Wood - 1450 Australian Cypress Wood - 1375 White Oak Wood - 1360 Ash Wood - 1320 American Beech Wood - 1300 American Red Oak Wood - 1290 American Birch Wood - 1260 Yellow Birch Wood - 1260 American White Ash Wood - 1230 Heart Pine Wood - 1225 Rose River Gum Wood - 1125 Australian Oak Wood - 1010 Black Walnut Wood - 1010 American Walnut Wood - 1010 Teak Wood - 1000 American Cherry Wood - 950 Black Cherry Wood - 950 Southern Yellow Pine Wood - 870 Lacewood Wood - 840 Cumara Wood - 790 Douglas Fir Wood - 660 Larch Wood - 590 Exceeded our expectations Met our expectations Expectations not met

 

  Choose your wood floor direction

The direction in which the floor is installed has a strong influence on the feeling that is created. In most cases floors tend to be installed lengthways, but the shape and dimensions of the room can have a bearing on this simple rule. if your room is large and square with windows and natural light is coming in from just one direction, we recommend that you consider installing the floor in the direction of the main light source. This will allow daylight to flow up the grain of the floor and reduce the appearance of joints within the floors surface. Click here to download one of our wooden floor pdf's.

  Light or dark wooden flooring

Natural light, the size of the windows, other lighting and orientation are some of the points that can influence the choice of floor colour.  A dark floor "swallows" a lot of light, and also affects the feeling of space.  At the same time, a dark floor can create a warm and comfortable feel in large rooms.  A light rug on a dark floor unites the room with its light-coloured walls.  A light wood floor reflects the light and increases the feeling of space within the room, and create a dramatic contrast to dark design details.  Polished and shiny floors reflect sunlight and redistribute it more than matt lacquered or natural oiled floors. Click here to find out more about the different species of wood.

Caring for your Wooden Floor - Longevity and Upkeep

Solid-hardwood flooring will last for many years, even in areas of heavy traffic. It can be sanded down and resurfaced periodically, perhaps every five to seven years or so, depending upon how much wear and tear it gets. Engineered flooring will normally withstand one or two sandings, but no more than that. Real wood flooring will age gracefully, and the signs of wear and tear are an acceptable feature – as timber furniture ages and picks up the occasional dent or mark, so will timber flooring.

Most timber flooring should be swept with a soft brush or vacuumed regularly to stop grit being trodden in. Grit causes scratches that in turn catch dust and dirt, making the surface look dull and grimy.

Also mop the floor once a week or so with a well-wrung mop. A detergent can be added to the water, depending on whether the floor has a hard (varnished or lacquered) or soft (waxed or oiled) finish. Hard finishes give the wood a protective barrier and offer a high level of protection, but are more difficult to repair if damaged.

A serious scratch or dent in a lacquered finish usually means the whole floor has to be sanded back and then relacquered or revarnished. Waxed or oiled finishes are softer, and protect the surface by sinking into the wood itself. They're most successful if you want to nurture an aged, worn look for your wooden floor. Damaged areas on a waxed or oiled finish can be sanded back and rewaxed or reoiled in a small area only, rather than doing the whole floor.

Cleaning Hard Wood Floors

Cleaning agents for wood floors may incorporate polymers to form a protective film on the surface which is polished in the cleaning process. There are special cleaners for sports floors and gymnasiums with anti slip properties and which will minimize skin abrasion should someone fall.

Industrial floors worth anti slip need cleaners that will not damage the surface. Almost all materials – carpets, tiles, ceramics, cork, granite, laminates, limestone, linoleum, marble, rubber, stone, vinyl and wood – have recommended cleaners. In addition there are solutions to remove chewing gum, graffiti, grease, spots and stains. Equipment includes brushes, pads, mops etc and hand held and ride on vacuum cleaners, wood floor buffing machines and polishers.

It cannot be over emphasised that manufacturer’s recommendations for usage of both materials and machinery should be followed at all times. Please have a look at our wooden flooring FAQ's

Wooden Flooring - Underfloor Heating

Experiences in Sweden and Germany were quite different, as in those countries warm water systems were developed which met demands for combined efficiency and comfort. Forty years on interest in underfloor heating is reviving in the UK party fuelled by the demand for ceramic, stone and wood floors. Architects and specifiers want to bring these European style floorings into buildings, but need to ensure the warm and welcoming atmosphere they create is not lost in chilly British winter.

Two major selling points for underfloor heating (UFH) are that the absence of radiators creates more space, particularly in residential apartments, and that substantial savings can be made on heating costs. UFH is a form of radiant heat that seeks to create summer warmth in cold weather. This is done by creating radiant floors either by circulating low temperature water in pipes below the floor or by electric cables emitting low temperature heat.

Water Based Systems for your wooden floor

A water pipe or a series of pipes carrying warmed water, integral to the floor structure, conducts heats the floors surface.
The water flow can be directed to any area requiring heat by means of valved manifolds connected to the pipes. A high temperature control valve is designed to prevent water above 60 degrees c entering the system from the boiler. Thermostats control individual room temperatures. Some systems use continuous piping to eliminate the need for access, This type of system is believed to save 10-15% in heating costs, partly because the water only needs to be heated to 60 degrees C to operate effectively compared to the 80 degrees C normally required for central heating.

All pipes should be insulated, particularly those transported to remote areas, to ensure the system does not overheat the floor.
Almost any type of boiler can supply the underfloor piping providing it meets the output required. The size of the boiler required is determined by the heat losses of the building plus a margin of approximately 25% Water based underfloor heating systems can be connected to a radiator central heating system if necessary.

Electric cable based systems for your Wooden Floor

One system uses electrical heating cables held in place on a mesh mat with single conductor or twin conductor for new builds.
The system can be connected to thermostats with sensors to measure floor or room temperatures, or both. Some manufacturers offer a cable system that can be connected to a computer network so that all setting and adjustments can be controlled from a central point.

It contains a program that can pin point any faults that may occur. Another holds carbon based heating elements between two layers of film, with a two wire mains connection, and a program thermostat. Systems are available to be used with new floors, old floor boards and renovated bathrooms. One of the main advantages of a mat cable system is that in many instances it can be laid directly below the flooring without the need for a raised floor.

Underfloor heating relies on the upper surface of the floor covering being warmed to its design temperature of 25-29 degrees C. Sheet vinyl is sensitive to long term exposure to heat. Most brands are limited to about 26 degrees C although some have an upper limit of 30 degrees C.

Carpets and Underlay: a heating system should ensure adequate heat transfer from the top of the heated floor to the carper backing. If the backing is warm it will radiate heat upwards. The pile will not impede the heat transfer as it absorbs little radiant heat.

The thickness of the underlay determines how much heat is transferred. Heat can easily pass through sponge and waffle underlays, but felt and rubber crumb are poor conductors and could seriously reduce the effectiveness of any UFH. In general floor coverings with open woven or bonded structures are acceptable. Ceramic tiles, stone and marble all have quite a high thermal conductivity so UFH will transfer easily, although these types of materials would remain cold with ost other types of heating.

The thickness of this material will not stop heat transfer but will take a longer time to warm up. Click here to find out more about the different species of wood.